SIGNATURE DERBY　Tyre Black

A reinterpretation of the classic three-eyelet plain-toe derby, inspired by the footwear of 1950s British racing legends.
　

❶ Essence — Design & Structure

The Signature Derby takes cues from the narrow-welt British derbies famously worn by Mike Hawthorn in the late 1950s, reimagined through NEGRONI’s design language. Built on the GRS last, it balances a sharp silhouette with a three-dimensional hold of the foot. NEGRONI’s original “dress-finished driving sole” combines the warmth of hand-patinated leather welts with the practicality of lightweight rubber. With a 22mm heel height, it transitions effortlessly from casual driving style to business or tailored attire.

❷ Expression — Materials & Aesthetics

The upper is crafted from premium calf leather, giving the plain-toe silhouette an elegant and understated presence. The hand-patinated leather welt adds depth and individuality, emphasizing the classic aesthetic. The outsole is made from ultra-lightweight Vibram®︎ Gumlite, manufactured exclusively in Italy, ensuring refined style paired with high functionality.

❸ Response — Comfort & Sensitivity

Designed on the same comfort concept as the Tourer, the Signature Derby provides an enveloping fit with ample toe volume—avoiding the restrictive feel common in traditional dress shoes. The lightweight sole and 80° tapered heel allow smooth pivoting motions, making it equally adept for city cruising or light sports driving.

❹ Legacy — History & Heritage

In the 1950s, racing paddocks were marked by variety—Stirling Moss in loafers, Peter Collins in dressy balmorals, and Mike Hawthorn in his signature three-eyelet derbies. Beyond style, their easy on-and-off practicality made them suited to racing life. The Signature Derby revives this spirit, blending historical references with modern craftsmanship and performance.

❺ Vision — Future Outlook

The Signature Derby carries the cultural memory of British racing into contemporary life. By uniting classic design with lasting comfort, it offers a shoe that moves seamlessly between the street and the circuit, setting a new standard within the BYFLEET collection.

Specifications

Upper: Suede leather (British cowhide | Made in Japan)

Lining: Leather × Ultrasuede® layered lining

Insole: Horsehide insole

Outsole: NEGRONI “dress-finished” driving sole
(Vibram Gumlite rubber | ultra-lightweight, high-grip)

Welt: Hand-patinated leather welt, finished at NEGRONI Factory Tokyo

The upper, lining, and insole are made in Japan, while the sole material is made in Italy.
The final step, attaching the sole, is done one pair at a time at the Negroni Factory Tokyo.