BYFLEET S Black Oxide

A three-eyelet plain-toe derby inspired by the British racing paddocks of the 1950s, reimagined in refined calf leather for modern driving.
　

❶ Essence — Design & Structure

The Signature Derby S references the narrow-welt British derbies famously worn by Mike Hawthorn in the late 1950s, reinterpreted through NEGRONI’s design language. Built on the GRS last, it balances a sharp silhouette with three-dimensional foot support. NEGRONI’s original “dress-finished driving sole” combines the warmth of hand-patinated leather welts with the functionality of ultra-lightweight Vibram rubber. With a 22mm heel height, it adapts seamlessly from spirited driving to tailored business attire.

❷ Expression — Materials & Aesthetics

Crafted from premium calf leather, the upper offers a smooth texture and refined luster that highlight the plain-toe silhouette. The hand-patinated leather welt adds depth and individuality, emphasizing artisanal character. An Italian-made Vibram Gumlite outsole ensures that formal aesthetics coexist with everyday practicality.

❸ Response — Comfort & Sensitivity

The Signature Derby S inherits the comfort concept of the Tourer, but with a topline height optimized for dress shoes. While sharp in profile, the last provides ample toe volume, ensuring a natural sense of space. A horsehide insole cushions the foot and reduces fatigue, while the lightweight outsole enhances walking comfort and pedal feel. The 80° tapered heel facilitates smooth pivoting motions, making the shoe equally suited to city cruising and light sports driving.

❹ Legacy — History & Heritage

In the 1950s, racing paddocks reflected diverse footwear choices—Stirling Moss in loafers, Peter Collins in balmorals, and Mike Hawthorn in his distinctive three-eyelet derbies. Beyond elegance, these shoes offered practicality and ease of wear. The Signature Derby S revives this heritage, reconstructed in calf leather to bridge the elegance of classic racing style with modern craftsmanship.

❺ Vision — Future Outlook

The Signature Derby S connects the cultural memory of British racing with the demands of contemporary life. By fusing the sophistication of calf leather with versatile comfort, it becomes a shoe that transitions effortlessly between the street and the circuit—an emblematic model within the BYFLEET collection.

Specifications

Upper: NEGRONI Wet track calf (Dutch cowhide | Made in Japan)

Lining: Leather × Ultrasuede® layered lining

Insole: Horsehide insole

Outsole: NEGRONI “dress-finished” driving sole
(Vibram Gumlite rubber | ultra-lightweight, high-grip)

Welt: Hand-patinated leather welt, finished at NEGRONI Factory Tokyo

The upper, lining, and insole are made in Japan, while the sole material is made in Italy.
The final step, attaching the sole, is done one pair at a time at the Negroni Factory Tokyo.